Today was the day

that I tried surfing for the very first time.

I got a 60-second lesson on the sand from a fellow IR/PSer, and then off we went into the waters of Tourmaline Beach - it's a surfers-only beach, and pedestrians aren't allowed to play or swim in the water for fear of being decapitated by a surfboard.

Or so I'm told.

Anyway, I caught the very first wave that came my way, and even managed to stand up for a couple seconds before the wave petered out and I crashed.

It was beginner's luck combined with hitting a big return on the very first crank of a slot machine. I spent the next 45 minutes mostly failing to catch another, but I don't care. It was a blast. I might even be in the market for a used surfboard.

I guess this California thing is a decent fit after all.
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